What Should an Independent Car Appraisal Report Include?

An independent car appraisal report should include your vehicle's exact specifications, its pre-loss condition with support, real comparable vehicles with sources and dates, every adjustment with the reasoning behind it, a clear final value and the signature and credentials of the appraiser. If any of those pieces is missing, the adjuster has an easy reason to set the report aside. Use this guide as a checklist before you pay for one or send one in.

Updated

Why the contents matter more than the final number

A report that just says "this car was worth $X" is an opinion. A report that shows how it got there is evidence. The insurer's own valuation shows its comparables and adjustments, and your appraisal needs to meet that same standard, or better, so that the adjuster can compare them line by line.

Section 1: The vehicle, described exactly

The report should identify your car precisely:

  • Year, make, model and trim
  • VIN
  • Mileage at the time of loss
  • Engine, transmission and drivetrain
  • Factory options and packages, ideally checked against the window sticker or a VIN build sheet
  • Aftermarket equipment, noted separately

This is where many valuation disputes start. If the appraiser gets the trim or packages wrong, everything after it is off too.

Section 2: Pre-loss condition, with support

Condition should describe the car as it was just before the loss, not after. Look for:

  • A condition rating for the main areas (body, paint, interior, tires, mechanical)
  • The basis for each rating: photos, service records, receipts, inspection notes
  • Recent work called out specifically, such as new tires, brakes or major repairs

A rating with no support behind it is as weak in your report as it is in the insurer's.

Section 3: Comparable vehicles you can check

This is the heart of the report. Each comparable should list:

  • Year, make, model, trim and mileage
  • Asking or sold price
  • Source (dealer, listing site, auction or sales data)
  • Location and distance from you
  • Date the data was captured
  • A way to verify it, such as a VIN, stock number or listing reference

Comparables should be from your local market where possible, close to your date of loss and as close to your car's configuration as the market allows. If the appraiser had to widen the search, the report should say why.

Section 4: Adjustments, each explained

No comparable is identical to your car, so each one gets adjusted. A solid report shows:

  • Mileage adjustments, with the method used
  • Equipment adjustments for options one car has and the other lacks
  • Condition adjustments, if any, and why
  • Any other adjustment, with a plain explanation

You should be able to follow each adjusted price back to its starting price. If you cannot, ask.

Section 5: The value conclusion

The report should state one final actual cash value and show how the adjusted comparables produced it (an average, a weighted method or another stated approach). It is also common, and helpful, to address the insurer's valuation directly, noting where the two reports differ and why.

Some reports also lay out the related settlement items your state or policy may include, such as sales tax and title or registration fees. Rules on those vary by state and policy, so the report should describe them rather than assume them.

Section 6: The appraiser and their independence

The last section is about who stands behind the number:

  • The appraiser's name and signature
  • Their credentials or certification
  • The date of the report
  • A statement of independence, including how they are paid

That last point matters to adjusters. A flat fee, never a cut, means the appraiser's pay does not depend on the value they reach.

Section 7: Supporting exhibits

The body of the report makes the argument. The exhibits let someone check it. A strong appraisal attaches or references:

  • The window sticker or build sheet used to confirm options
  • Copies or captures of each comparable listing or sale record
  • Pre-loss photos and the service records behind the condition rating
  • The insurer's valuation, if the report responds to it

Label exhibits clearly so an adjuster can find the comparable on page six without hunting for it.

How do I compare the appraisal with the insurer's report?

Put them side by side and go section by section. Where do the vehicle descriptions differ? Are the comparables from the same area and time? Which adjustments differ, and by how much? Usually the difference between two valuations comes down to a few specific lines, not everything at once. Write those lines down. They are the points to raise in your written response to the adjuster.

If the two reports agree closely, that is useful too. It suggests the insurer's number is in line with your market.

The quick checklist

Before you accept or send any appraisal, run through this:

  1. The trim, options and mileage match your window sticker and odometer.
  2. Condition is described as pre-loss and backed by photos or records.
  3. Each comparable has a price, source, location, date and a way to verify it.
  4. Every adjustment is listed and explained.
  5. The final value is clearly derived from the comparables.
  6. The report addresses the insurer's valuation where they differ.
  7. The appraiser has signed and dated it, with credentials listed.
  8. The fee arrangement is disclosed.

Red flags in an appraisal report

  • A single value with no comparables shown
  • Comparables with no dates, sources or locations
  • Dealer listings from far outside your market with no explanation
  • No mention of your car's actual options
  • Language promising a result rather than describing a value
  • No signature, or no way to reach the person who prepared it

How we build ours

Each full Fair Value Appraisal Co. report follows the structure above and is signed by one ASCAA Certified Auto Appraiser. We work remotely from your documents and the insurer's valuation; there is no in-person inspection. We do not represent you or deal with the insurer for you. You send the report, and we suggest you keep every reply from the insurer in writing. Not sure you need one? Read should I get an independent appraisal for my totaled car, or see how much an independent auto appraisal costs.

Not legal advice. Policy terms and state rules vary.

Frequently asked questions

How long should an appraisal report be?
Long enough to show the work. Length itself does not matter. What matters is that every comparable and adjustment is there and can be checked.
Should the report include photos of my car?
Pre-loss photos are very helpful for supporting condition. Post-loss photos are less useful for value, since a total-loss appraisal values the car as it was before the damage.
Can an appraisal use asking prices instead of sold prices?
Many valuations use dealer asking prices because that is the market you would buy from. Some also use sold data. Either way, the report should say which it used and why.
What if the report gets my trim or options wrong?
Ask for a correction before you send it anywhere. Provide your window sticker or build sheet. A report with a wrong input gives the adjuster an easy reason to dismiss it.
Will the insurer read the whole report?
Adjusters tend to focus on comparables and adjustments. Making those sections clear and easy to verify is the best way to get them read carefully.
Does the report need to mention sales tax and fees?
It can help. Whether tax, title and registration fees are part of a total-loss settlement depends on your state and policy. A report that notes them, without assuming the answer, keeps those items from being forgotten.
Can I ask the appraiser to change the value?
You can ask them to fix factual errors, like a wrong trim, missing option or incorrect mileage, and the value should change if the inputs change. You should not ask them to reach a particular number. A report shaped to hit a target is easy for an adjuster to pick apart, and it stops being independent.
Is an independent appraisal report the same as a diminished value report?
No. A total-loss appraisal values the car just before the loss. A diminished value report measures how much a repaired car lost in resale value because of the accident. Some firms prepare both, but they answer different questions.

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