Why the contents matter more than the final number
A report that just says "this car was worth $X" is an opinion. A report that shows how it got there is evidence. The insurer's own valuation shows its comparables and adjustments, and your appraisal needs to meet that same standard, or better, so that the adjuster can compare them line by line.
Section 1: The vehicle, described exactly
The report should identify your car precisely:
- Year, make, model and trim
- VIN
- Mileage at the time of loss
- Engine, transmission and drivetrain
- Factory options and packages, ideally checked against the window sticker or a VIN build sheet
- Aftermarket equipment, noted separately
This is where many valuation disputes start. If the appraiser gets the trim or packages wrong, everything after it is off too.
Section 2: Pre-loss condition, with support
Condition should describe the car as it was just before the loss, not after. Look for:
- A condition rating for the main areas (body, paint, interior, tires, mechanical)
- The basis for each rating: photos, service records, receipts, inspection notes
- Recent work called out specifically, such as new tires, brakes or major repairs
A rating with no support behind it is as weak in your report as it is in the insurer's.
Section 3: Comparable vehicles you can check
This is the heart of the report. Each comparable should list:
- Year, make, model, trim and mileage
- Asking or sold price
- Source (dealer, listing site, auction or sales data)
- Location and distance from you
- Date the data was captured
- A way to verify it, such as a VIN, stock number or listing reference
Comparables should be from your local market where possible, close to your date of loss and as close to your car's configuration as the market allows. If the appraiser had to widen the search, the report should say why.
Section 4: Adjustments, each explained
No comparable is identical to your car, so each one gets adjusted. A solid report shows:
- Mileage adjustments, with the method used
- Equipment adjustments for options one car has and the other lacks
- Condition adjustments, if any, and why
- Any other adjustment, with a plain explanation
You should be able to follow each adjusted price back to its starting price. If you cannot, ask.
Section 5: The value conclusion
The report should state one final actual cash value and show how the adjusted comparables produced it (an average, a weighted method or another stated approach). It is also common, and helpful, to address the insurer's valuation directly, noting where the two reports differ and why.
Some reports also lay out the related settlement items your state or policy may include, such as sales tax and title or registration fees. Rules on those vary by state and policy, so the report should describe them rather than assume them.
Section 6: The appraiser and their independence
The last section is about who stands behind the number:
- The appraiser's name and signature
- Their credentials or certification
- The date of the report
- A statement of independence, including how they are paid
That last point matters to adjusters. A flat fee, never a cut, means the appraiser's pay does not depend on the value they reach.
Section 7: Supporting exhibits
The body of the report makes the argument. The exhibits let someone check it. A strong appraisal attaches or references:
- The window sticker or build sheet used to confirm options
- Copies or captures of each comparable listing or sale record
- Pre-loss photos and the service records behind the condition rating
- The insurer's valuation, if the report responds to it
Label exhibits clearly so an adjuster can find the comparable on page six without hunting for it.
How do I compare the appraisal with the insurer's report?
Put them side by side and go section by section. Where do the vehicle descriptions differ? Are the comparables from the same area and time? Which adjustments differ, and by how much? Usually the difference between two valuations comes down to a few specific lines, not everything at once. Write those lines down. They are the points to raise in your written response to the adjuster.
If the two reports agree closely, that is useful too. It suggests the insurer's number is in line with your market.
The quick checklist
Before you accept or send any appraisal, run through this:
- The trim, options and mileage match your window sticker and odometer.
- Condition is described as pre-loss and backed by photos or records.
- Each comparable has a price, source, location, date and a way to verify it.
- Every adjustment is listed and explained.
- The final value is clearly derived from the comparables.
- The report addresses the insurer's valuation where they differ.
- The appraiser has signed and dated it, with credentials listed.
- The fee arrangement is disclosed.
Red flags in an appraisal report
- A single value with no comparables shown
- Comparables with no dates, sources or locations
- Dealer listings from far outside your market with no explanation
- No mention of your car's actual options
- Language promising a result rather than describing a value
- No signature, or no way to reach the person who prepared it
How we build ours
Each full Fair Value Appraisal Co. report follows the structure above and is signed by one ASCAA Certified Auto Appraiser. We work remotely from your documents and the insurer's valuation; there is no in-person inspection. We do not represent you or deal with the insurer for you. You send the report, and we suggest you keep every reply from the insurer in writing. Not sure you need one? Read should I get an independent appraisal for my totaled car, or see how much an independent auto appraisal costs.
Not legal advice. Policy terms and state rules vary.